How to Spot High-Quality Linen From the Rest

A Simple Guide from Kelsey Collective
At Kelsey Collective, we’ve worked with only 100% linen for nearly two decades, and over that time, we’ve learned exactly what to look for when it comes to lasting quality, comfort, and beauty. Unfortunately not all linen is created equal. And if you've ever slipped on a beautifully made 100% linen piece, you'll know—there’s a world of difference between the good stuff and the rest.
With so many blends on the market—particularly polyester-linen mixes—and brands claiming “100% linen” when they’re anything but, it can be tricky to know what you’re really buying. And when you’re investing in something as timeless and beautiful as linen, you deserve to know it’s the real deal.
If you’ve ever wondered what sets true, high-quality linen apart, this guide is for you. We’re sharing ten simple, practical tips to help you confidently choose pieces that feel incredible on the body, soften with every wear, and hold their beauty for seasons to come.
1. Pay Attention to Weight
The weight of linen plays a big role in how it feels and wears. High-quality linen will usually fall into one of these three categories:
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Lightweight (90–130 gsm) – Think soft summer blouses and easy-breezy dresses.
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Mid-weight (140–190 gsm) – Perfect for everyday pants, shirts, and trans-seasonal pieces (Kelsey Collective garments are always made using 140gsm).
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Heavyweight (200–300 gsm) – Best suited for outer layers or home textiles.
If a piece claims to be mid-weight but feels flimsy or sheer, it may be a blend or lower-grade linen. Always check the fabric weight—it’s a simple but powerful quality indicator.
2. Know Where It Comes From
Linen quality can often be traced back to its roots—literally. Flax grown in cooler European climates (like France and Belgium) is often superior, thanks to ideal growing conditions and generations of expertise.
At Kelsey Collective, we use premium flax linen sourced from trusted European suppliers, and our garments are ethically made in Bali in small, considered runs. This way, we can ensure the quality of every step in our production journey, from soil to stitch.
3. Embrace the Wrinkles
Wrinkles are part of linen’s charm. It’s a low-elasticity fibre, which means it holds gentle creases rather than springing back like synthetics.
To test a piece, gently scrunch it in your hand. If it wrinkles naturally, that’s a great sign it’s the real thing. Linen’s relaxed, lived-in texture is a signature we’ll never try to smooth out—it’s part of what makes it so special.
4. Check Fabric Strength
High quality linen is naturally strong—it’s one of the reasons we love it. A good-quality piece should hold its shape and stand up to wear for many years.
To test this, gently stretch the fabric between your fingers. It should feel firm and stable, not saggy or overly stretchy. Pure linen will feel reassuringly sturdy.
5. The Texture Test
Authentic linen has a beautiful tactile texture— subtly uneven with tiny natural slubs. These variations aren’t flaws; they’re part of its organic character.
Run your fingers over the fabric. It should feel cool, crisp, and a little textured, not slippery or overly soft. If it feels silky-smooth, it may be blended with synthetic fibres.
6. Notice How It Ages
One of linen’s greatest gifts? It just gets better with time.
While some new linen may start out feeling a little crisp or textured, it softens beautifully over time—becoming more supple, more breathable, and even more comfortable with every wash, all without compromising its strength or shape.
At Kelsey Collective, we take it a step further. Every piece of linen we use is double-washed before it’s even sewn. This pre-softening process gives your garment a head start—so it arrives feeling gentle on your skin, and only gets better with age. Linen is a fabric that evolves with you, becoming more ‘yours’ each time you wear it.
7. Check Absorbency
Here’s a quick trick: place a drop of water on the fabric. Real linen will absorb it almost instantly, thanks to its incredible moisture-wicking properties.
Linen can absorb up to 40% of its weight in moisture before it even starts to feel damp—which is one of the reasons it’s such a wonderful choice for warm climates.
8. Check for Colour Quality
High-quality linen, whether undyed or hand-dyed, should have a consistent, rich tone—no streakiness or over-bright synthetic shades.
Because natural linen takes dye differently than synthetic fibres, watch for depth and subtle variation, rather than flatness or fading. Our colour palettes at Kelsey Collective are thoughtfully curated and dyed in small batches, which helps us maintain richness and integrity.
9. Trust Your Senses
Real linen just feels right. It smells earthy, it looks relaxed, and it reacts to touch in a way that synthetics can’t replicate.
Trust your instincts—how the fabric moves, breathes, and feels—will often tell you all you need to know.
10. Understand the Price Tag
It’s true—good linen is more expensive to produce. But there’s a reason for that.
From cultivating the flax plant to weaving, dyeing, and crafting the final garment, linen is a slow and deliberate process. It’s also far more sustainable than most fabrics, requiring less water, fewer chemicals, and little intervention. So when you see a piece of clothing priced far lower than you'd expect—it may be a red flag.
At Kelsey Collective, we believe in thoughtful fashion. Our prices reflect the quality of our materials, the ethical partnerships we maintain, and the timeless designs we create to last for years—not just a season.
The Linen You Live In
Linen has been woven into the story of Kelsey Collective since the very beginning. We fell in love with its breathability, its natural movement, and the way it effortlessly adjusts—not only to the seasons but to the ever-changing female form.
Every garment we create is thoughtfully designed to help you feel completely at ease in your own skin. Timeless, flattering, and made with care, our linen pieces are more than just beautiful—they're dependable companions through many seasons of life.
Because when linen is pure, well-crafted, and consciously designed, it becomes a true investment—one that only gets better with time and can be worn and loved for years to come.
Explore our 100% linen collection today